Bluegrass Country

Stewart and I just returned from our now-annual trip to Lexington, KY.  For those of you who slept through 5th grade U.S. geography class, Kentucky is nestled within 7 states, but generally south of Ohio and Indiana and north of Tennessee.  And Lexington sits sort of in the middle of the Commonwealth, an hour and a half south of Cincinnati, and an hour and a half east of Louisville.   If you're looking to buy or race a thoroughbred horse, or house it in multi-million dollar stable surrounded by manicured fields of grass surrounded by miles of white fencing, you'll want to go to Lexington.  

But I digress.  

We attended the McNabb reunion/picnic (my  Dad's side of the genealogical house), and the ensuing cousin after party once the elders headed off to bed.  It was held this year in Shillito Park, the park of my childhood, although its layout and feel has changed considerably in the intervening 40 years.  

We hit the Bourbon Trail twice, once at Buffalo Trace and then at Town Ranch, which is slightly ironic since both Stewart and Mom don't drink.   My Dad and I stress the educational and cultural value of such outings, as we sip their bourbon and whiskey samples.  We also visited Colonel Sanders' grave, had dinner at Colonel Sanders' wife's restaurant in Shelbyville, and Mom and Dad treated us to a Derby Dinner Theater evening with Mary Poppins and a lot of  fried catfish.  All quite enjoyable.

Mom cooked and hosted a dinner with the Reverend Mark Beckett who came down from Columbus, and with Bill and Cindi Clark and their kids/our godsons Jay and David.  Then lunch out with my godfather/uncle Arden and aunt Shirley, and Stephanie Gardner.  

We try to go back to Lexington at least once a year, if not twice, although this December we will be headed to Spokane instead, for Stewart's son's 40th birthday.  

Et tu, Santa Monica?

A few weeks ago Stewart and I were in Santa Monica, meeting a longtime friend of mine who had traveled out from Illinois to see the spectacle that is Los Angeles.   Having lived in SoCal for nearly 25 years I have become inured to both the grandeur and the oddness that greets those who visit from the midwest and south, but at the same time I never fail to be disappointed at our State's conservancy of what we have.  An otherwise potentially beautiful beach, in typical American style it is strewn with all manner of trash, as are the highways leading into and around the town.  Visitors to the Santa Monica Pier are relentlessly accosted by the homeless and near-homeless who aggressively panhandle for money.   The tourist attractions, even given that they are designed to lure the unsuspecting or the unaware into buying something, are chintzy and poorly maintained.  

On top of that my friend got the pleasure of experiencing SoCal traffic, which has become a standing icon of our State's failure to create an infrastructure that somewhat approximates the number of citizens that will invariably interact with and use it.  Stewart and I ourselves fell into the trap as we headed home later that evening, when Caltrans decided to shut the entire freeway down for maintenance.  

Sydney and Melbourne Australia have millions of residents similar to a Santa Monica or a San Diego, and their public parks are impeccable.  No trash, no homeless, the flora and fauna maintained to what seems to be an impossible standard given the volume of people who frequent them.  Even their grass is somehow maintained such that it doesn't look like a stampede of buffalo ran circles over it all day, as opposed to how Balboa Park in San Diego typically looks.  

It probably doesn't help that California is in a severe drought, but that's hardly a surprising turn of events for LA and San Diego.  Yet we haven't transitioned to plants that actually are sustainable in drought conditions, unlike say Palm Springs, so we're left with stressed, terminally ill landscapes that make much of our public spaces, especially those surrounding our highways, look like the lawn of a foreclosed home.   On the plus side, I suppose, if it weren't for the occasional gang of prisoners marched around on the shoulders of the 5, 8, and 15 picking up trash, you'd likely never see most of the vegetation at all.  

So there's the silver lining, California's nearly unlimited supply of prison labor.  And the fact that the Santa Monica Pier is the terminus of Route 66:  

South America, Part 2

After Machu Picchu we traveled to the Galapagos Islands, the archipelago made famous by Charles Darwin during his voyage on The Beagle.   There are no indigenous mammals there, just reptiles, birds and a great diversity of marine wildlife.  The reptiles and sea lions have no innate fear or aversion to humans, although at times it was clear we were straining their patience.  But otherwise you could walk right up to them and just look and observe (touching was strictly verboten).  On two different occasions while snorkeling a sea lion decided to spook the living bejeezus out of me by launching himself from a rocky outcropping into the water just a few feet away from my head.    Which if I were a sea lion I would do all the time.  

Below is a photo of a small colony of sea lions, the younger one suckling from his very disinterested mother. 

One of the reasons I wanted to go to the Galapagos was to see the the evolutionary differentiation within species, something I find fascinating. The eyes and fur of the sea lions who hunt at night rather than the day evolved to better accommodate the colder temperatures and absence of light.  The land tortoises' shells changed shape compared to their marine brethren as the source and location of their food changed.  The seafaring iguana developed a mechanism to filter salt out of seawater, and then expel it by snorting it periodically (and with impressive velocity) out its nose.  

The Galapagos still have active volcanoes, and one day we hiked along the rim of one, and then actually onto the cooled lava flow.  The photo below was taken of one that had erupted in the mid 2000's (most of the volcano is actually off to the left, but I thought the juxtaposition of the lava against the surrounding vegetation was interesting).

After the Galapagos we returned to mainland Ecuador and then traveled to Cuenca (CWEN-ka) to visit Sara Coppler and her wife Kathy.  Sara's parents are my godparents, and by a small quirk of fate her Dad is now my uncle (her Mom has since passed away).  And growing up Sara used to babysit me.    We had a great time, capped off by Sara hosting a large group of friends and cooking several pots of authentic Coppler chili, and then the next day with a four hour hike up to the Giron waterfalls (photo below).  It was a surprisingly difficult:  slippery, muddy and with dense vegetation along the trail, but the falls were just beautiful and solitary.  

South America, Part 1

Stewart and I just returned from a three-week adventure trip to South America.  Machu Picchu in Peru, specifically, and then the Galapagos Islands of Ecuador.  

Machu Picchu (MP) was The Citadel of the Incan Empire, and was at the time a magnificent feat of engineering and human ingenuity situated at a most impossible location in the Peruvian Andes.   While one of their more visually stunning accomplishments, MP was one of many structures and communities the Incans built across their empire that at one time spanned most of the South American coast and stretched far inland.  

Below is a photo of one of their mortarless walls, with each boulder cut and fitted so exactingly to one another that you can scarcely insert a piece of paper between them, 600 years after they were built.  

The famous 12-sided stone in an Incan wall in Cusco, Peru

The famous 12-sided stone in an Incan wall in Cusco, Peru

There are a hundred stories as to why the walls were built the way they are, to include making them nearly impervious to earthquakes, and some that explain why there are small boulders at the bottom of the wall instead of the top.  

You can probably find more stunning photos of MP on the web, but armed with iPhones and a GoPro, here's one of our better ones: 

The photo does not begin to capture the enormity and complexity of the site, nor the far greater enormity of the mountain range in which it sits.  It is one of those things you have to see to truly appreciate.  To get a sense of the scale, the second day there we climbed the prominent mountain just behind the ruins, and it took us an hour and a half, literally going straight up its sheer side.  

The day prior we white-water rafted on the Urubamba River, which snakes through the mountain ranges and around MP itself.  Again, just spectacular scenery, punctuated with a few rapids that kept things interesting:  

I'm in the blue helmet on the left (with the GoPro camera strapped to my head), and Stewart is just behind me.  I think around the time this photo was taken our boat guide was having serious doubts about our physical acumen when it came to synchronized paddling.   Which might explain why we collided with the branches of an overhanging tree several minutes later.  

During the Peru portion of our trip I also rode a horse, in honor of my Kentucky heritage, although the horse and I were clearly not communicating very well with one another.  But that's another story.  

I will post some more photos soon, in case you are a glutton for vacation-photo punishment.  

Happy 47 and 67

Stewart and I celebrated our 67th and 47th birthdays yesterday with a trip to Santa Barbara.  A nice town, beautiful coastline, made all the better by being forced to slog through unrelenting LA traffic to get there.   We celebrated on several occasions over the weekend, all of which invariably involved large amounts of food and alcohol (for me anyway), but the moment made it both appropriate and memorable.  

Every year I try to mark the occasion of my birth with serious thought, but nothing ever comes of it, save for the conclusion that my random birth in a first world country, to educated parents who likewise insisted that I myself become educated, was a stroke of unbelievable luck.  Not to mention the fact that I am gay, which would have been a stroke of unbelievably bad luck had I been born in a great number of other places.  Not that Kentucky is the first State one thinks of when contemplating gay rights, but I'll take it over Nigeria.  

My parents gave me the Chicago Manual of Style (with which I am now enthralled) so that I may become a better writer someday and, in the near term, a more insufferable critic of other people's work.  If it weren't over 800 pages I would be quite inclined to carry it around for emphasis as I point out the errors of other people's compositions.  I also got a Neo-Lucida, an optical transference device for people very much like myself who love to draw and paint but lack the necessary talent to transfer what we see onto paper, unaided.  It is actually a very clever device, purportedly used by the ancient masters of yesteryear.  

Heidi and Greg gave us a college course from The Great Courses, which we love and look forward to listening to.  For those unaware, The Great Courses is essentially a company that sells full semesters' worth of college instruction, without the stress of passing exams or wondering how the hell you're going to get a job after graduation.  

All in all, a great birthday, and for those numerologists in our midst:   Stewart was born in 1947 and I turned 47.  I was born in 1967 and Stewart turned 67.  

 

Retirement Part II

We have been busy.  Much busier than I thought retirement would be, actually, and in all honesty I have only caught myself wearing sweatpants or pajamas after 2 p.m. on only three occasions.  

Stewart has been working far more than planned, due to a project that has turned into a  Sisyphean hell brought about by the client's breathtaking incompetence.   That, and one of the company's key project managers resigned, leaving him to transition his already-transitioned work to others.  

I've had a slightly easier go of it, working some for SDG&E (the local power company) and flying occasionally for Corporate Helicopters of San Diego.  This past week I flew a new bird off the production line in Grand Prairie, TX, back to San Diego (more on that in another entry), and I have done a few other charter flights here and there.  Just enough flying to keep me alert and on edge, I suppose.

We spent much of January with our good friend Reverend Mark Beckett who was in town (Mark married us in 2008), and catching up with other friends as well.  But local, for the most part.

Finally, we are ramping up the vacation schedule, and it would appear we are headed to the Galapagos Islands for 8 days, and Australia for a few weeks with Caroline.  And a bunch of U.S. trips in between.  Time to go shopping, I believe.  

 

A Death In The Family

"It was very long and dark; smooth like a boat; with bright handles.  Half the top was open.  There was a strange, sweet smell, so faint that it could scarcely be realized.

Rufus had never known such stillness.  Their little sounds, as they approached his father, vanished upon it like the infinitesimal whisperings of snow, falling on open water.

There was his head, his arms; suit:  there he was."

- James Agee, from his Pulitzer Prize-winning novel

socal sledding

Most people are not aware, but you can go sledding in San Diego.  Yes, snow is not involved, but who imagined large blocks of ice on smooth, manicured grass slopes can pick up so much speed?  Steering and braking are a little tricky, but otherwise it's quite the ride.  The below photo is of friend Peter Buotte, at a park just a few minutes from our home.  

For the more adventurous you can also skydive at a place just 15 minutes east, hang glide 20 minutes northwest, and of course surf and kayak anywhere along the coast, just 8 miles west as the crow flies.  

And if you have to have snow, in the Winter it's just an hour a way. 

holiday card explainer

Many of you have received our holiday card by now, and for those not aware Homer Simpson is the patriarch of the the Simpson family, of the TV show The Simpsons.  You may be a little more familiar with his son, Bart.   The show has been on for more than two decades, its longevity due in no small part to a group of clever writers who, much like those behind the original Bugs Bunny cartoons, wrote the script at two levels.  Kids enjoy the visual slapdash and cheap laughs, adults enjoy the witty and sometimes slightly sardonic commentary running in the background.   

And so goes are holiday card.  One one level it's funny, due to Homer's trademark ability to fill in what he doesn't know with wildly superfluous non-facts or personal opinion.  But on another level he represents the general religious American public who know surprisingly little about their beliefs, and who often have devoted little time thinking critically about why they believe at all. 

Growing up in a Southern Baptist church it was often postulated that belief in god was a very worthwhile hedge--if god existed then my limited investment praising and worshipping him paid off in a big way, with eternal life.  If there was no god, then I hadn't lost that much, save for the Sunday mornings spent listening to arcane sermons and my time singing with the choir, even though I am noticeably tone deaf. Homer alludes to this reasoning by saying he and his family were probably right, as if he wasn't really sure but was believing anyway as a way of self-insurance against the possibility of it actually being true.  

The Simpsons are a caricature, an almost absurd magnification, of American familial dysfunction; mostly not to deride but to celebrate it, and in our case to a make passing note that something as pivotal as religious belief might warrant a little more reflection during this holiday season.  

As a small footnote, there is a quote on the back of the card, which is made all the funnier if you are aware of Stewart's love of all things John Denver.  But that's another story.